From the heart of Italy’s renowned Piedmont region, a wine that stands as a testament to tradition, craftsmanship, and the enduring spirit of winemaking is born – Barolo. Revered as the “King of Wines” and the “Wine of Kings”, Barolo holds a special place in the hearts of oenophiles worldwide. Named after the village of Barolo in the Langhe area of Piedmont, Barolo is made from the Nebbiolo grape that thrives in the challenging yet rewarding conditions of the Langhe hills.
The vineyards, often situated on steep slopes with diverse soil compositions, create a mosaic of microclimates that contribute to the complexity of the wine. The combination of warm days and cool nights, characteristic of the Langhe region, allows the Nebbiolo grape to ripen slowly, preserving its acidity and developing nuanced flavours, and express itself with unparalleled finesse.
The Nebbiolo Grape
Nebbiolo, a red grape variety, has its roots in northwest Italy’s Piedmont region, and is widely regarded as one of Italy’s noblest and most distinctive grape varieties, being the key grape variety used in the production of several renowned wines, such as Barolo and Barbaresco. Its name may derive from “nebbia,” the Italian word for fog, possibly referencing the misty conditions during its late-ripening season.
As an extremely fussy grape, Nebbiolo can’t just be grown anywhere. The slopes Langhe hills seem to provide the best conditions for it to grow, as not only is it late-ripening, often being harvested in late October, it is also early flowering making it a potential victim to spring frosts.
Nebbiolo is naturally high in tannin and acidity, and will need warmth in order to develop the fruit flavours and sugars necessary for balance, often the best vintages will be those which have had dry weather in the approach to harvest.
Barolo
Nebbiolo is a varietal that demands patience and skill from winemakers, and produces lightly-coloured ruby-garnet wines with robust tannins, vibrant acidity, and a kaleidoscope of flavours. In their youth, Barolos are often highly tannic and have flavours of red fruits, rose petals, and tar. They will often require many years of aging in order to soften the tannins and balance them with other characteristics of the wine. As they age more aromas will reveal themselves, such as leather, truffle, prunes, and tobacco.
History
Barolo, as we know it today, can trace its roots back to the mid-19th century. Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, a Piedmontese statesman and later Italy’s first Prime Minister, played a pivotal role in promoting Barolo wines. He is thought to have hired the oenologist Paolo Francesco Staglieno for his Grinzane Estate, to produce quality age-worthy wines that could be exported. Staglieno began fermenting his wines dry, which became known as the ‘Staglieno method’. The Cavour-Staglieno partnership produced Barolos that became a favourite of King Carlo Alberto, hence the nickname “Wine of Kings”, and allowed for it to grow in popularity.
During the mid-19th century, Barolo’s winemaking techniques evolved. Longer maceration periods and aging in large oak casks became commonplace, defining the traditional style known for its structure and longevity. By the late 1800s Barolo had become highly regarded, and at the turn of the century efforts were beginning to be made to delineate the Barolo production zones, and attempt to classify the vineyards similar to the French ‘cru’ system. Though there is, still today, no official classification for the vineyards, in 1966 the Barolo zone was designated as a ‘controlled designation of origin’, or DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), then later was promoted to ‘controlled and guaranteed designation of origin’, DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita).
The ‘Barolo Wars’
Around the 1970s and 1980s Barolo producers in the Langhe entered into a series of disputes and conflicts in what became known as the “Barolo Wars”. Changes in peoples tastes, new technology, and the growing demand for fruitier, less tannic, easy-drinking wines with vanilla notes added from French new oak barriques drove a wedge between the producers who embraced these changes, the ‘modernists’, and those who were against them, the ‘traditionalists’.
These conflicts primarily revolved around stylistic and regulatory differences among winemakers and were characterized by strong disagreements over winemaking practices, the use of technology, and the interpretation of the regulations governing the production of Barolo wine.
One of the key points of contention was the use of modern winemaking techniques, such as temperature-controlled fermentation and the use of new oak barrels, versus the traditional methods involving longer maceration periods and aging in large, neutral oak casks known as botti. Traditionalists argued that these modern techniques could mask the unique characteristics of the Nebbiolo grape and the terroir of the Barolo region, while proponents of modern methods believed that they could enhance the wine and make it more approachable in its youth.
The Traditional Method
The winemaking process for Barolo is as meticulous as the grape is demanding. In the past, Nebbiolo would often be picked before fully ripening, thus leaving the grape with unripe tannins. In the traditional method, long maceration periods of up to 30 days were use to extract a maximum of colour and tannins. After, an also long, fermentation, the wine had to undergo an extended aging period, often in botti, in order to soften the tannins prior to drinking. This extended aging, sometimes lasting several years, contributed to the wine’s unique structure, elegance, and ability to evolve gracefully over time.
The Modern Method
On the other hand, the modern method usually involved shorter maceration and fermentation periods. Modernists embraced new technology, such as specialised tanks for pumping the wine from underneath the cap over the cap. This allowed for greater colour extraction, while reducing the extraction of astringent tannins. After fermentation, modernists would also opt for aging the wine for shorter periods than tradition dictated, and to age the wine in new oak French barrques for added vanilla notes, rather than in botti.
While the term ‘Barolo Wars’ might suggest a more dramatic conflict, it is important to note that these were mostly ideological and stylistic disputes within the winemaking community. With developments in viticulture, and vineyard management techniques, grape growers were able to harvest riper grapes earlier, and over time, a more balanced approach could emerged, that recognised the value of both traditional and modern methods in crafting high-quality Barolo wines. Today, Barolo producers continue to navigate these stylistic choices while preserving the unique heritage and character of this iconic Italian wine.
Food Pairing
As a strong wine, Barolo can easily overpower certain dishes, so it’ll need a dish that’ll match its strength. Its bold tannins and acidity pair exceptionally well with hearty meat dishes, as well as rich pasta or rice dishes.
Conclusion
Barolo, the enigmatic elixir of Piedmont, transcends the boundaries of time and trends, offering a profound and enduring experience for those who savour its complexities. From the vineyards to the artful craftsmanship in the cellar, Barolo stands as a symbol of Italy’s winemaking heritage and a beacon of excellence in the world of wine. As you embark on your journey through the regal landscapes of the Langhe, let each sip of Barolo be a symphony in a glass, a celebration of tradition, and an homage to the Kings of Wines.
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