Sicily, under Arab rule (831-1091), became a melting pot of culinary traditions. The Arabs brought advanced agricultural techniques, irrigation systems, and new crops, such as durum wheat, which is ideal for pasta due to its high gluten content and firm texture. This wheat variety, combined with the Sicilian climate, allowed for the production of high-quality pasta that could be dried and preserved. The technique of drying pasta in the sun was perfected during this time, which was crucial for storage and transportation.
Early Sicilian pasta dishes began incorporating ingredients like raisins, saffron, and spices, which were introduced by the Arabs, setting the stage for the evolution of pasta in Italy, incorporating local ingredients and flavours. The influence of Arab culture on pasta is also evident in the etymology of pasta names. For instance, ‘maccheroni’ is believed to have Arabic origins, demonstrating the deep cultural interconnections.
By the time the Normans conquered Sicily in the late 11th century, pasta had already become an integral part of Sicilian cuisine, and soon afterward, in the 12th century, pasta had started to become popular around Italy, too, particularly in the southern regions. Historical records from this period describe a variety of shapes and forms, including the earliest mentions of spaghetti and maccheroni. A 12th-century document from the Genoa area mentions maccheroni indicating the presence of pasta in the Italian diet. This period marked the transition from homemade, fresh pasta to commercially produced dried pasta, which could be stored and transported more easily, thus becoming more widely available and popular.
By the early renaissance the popularity of pasta had grown, with many different shapes and sizes being made. During the Renaissance, aided by the development of more advanced milling techniques that allowed for finer flours, pasta continued its spread across Italy. We see the emergence of new words for pasta, such as vermicelli and maccheroni, appearing in many recipes which also highlight the development and regionalisation of pasta culture in Italy. For instance, in the 15th century writings of Martino de Rossi, Libro de Arte Coquinaria, de Rossi mentions several recipes for pasta: maccaroni romaneschi, maccaroni in altro modo, maccheroni siciliani, ravioli in tempo di carne and vermicelli. At this point maccheroni was used to refer to all types of pasta, which seems to have continued through the centuries, as the 17th century renaming of the 16th century Corporazione dei Vermicellari to the Corporazione di Maccaronari, in Naples, suggests. The Corporazione dei Vermicellari/Maccaronari in Naples demonstrates the ever-growing importance of pasta, and the strong pasta culture emanating from Naples.
The marriage of pasta with tomato sauce, however, would not occur until the late 18th century and into the 19th century, following the introduction of tomatoes from the Americas. For much of its history, most people typically enjoyed pasta with simple ingredients like cheese, butter, oil, or a broth, the addition of any spices would have been unaffordable.
Despite, initially being met with suspicion, tomatoes were eventually embraced by Italian cooks who discovered their culinary potential. By the 19th century, tomato sauce began to be paired with pasta, creating the classic dishes we know today.
As pasta became more prevalent, regional variations began to emerge, reflecting local tastes and ingredients. In Naples, for example, macaroni was traditionally enjoyed with a simple tomato sauce and cheese, while in the northern regions, egg-based pasta like tagliatelle and ravioli became popular. This regional diversity contributed to the rich tapestry of Italian pasta culture, with each area developing its own unique pasta shapes and recipes.
The 18th century also saw the first cookbooks dedicated to pasta, such as the very popular Il Cuoco Galante by Vincenzo Corrado, which included recipes for both fresh and dried pasta dishes. These cookbooks helped standardise pasta-making techniques and spread knowledge about pasta preparation across Italy and beyond.
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